Winter fun at New York's Allegany State Park

We're up before dawn in order to claim first tracks of the day on the many trails surrounding the Art Roscoe Ski Touring Area in western New York's Allegany State Park. The crisp air and gently falling snow is a stark contrast to the ice and rain we endured the day before. Skiing in the quiet winter woods, the only sound that of our skis hissing through fresh powder, our spirits are cleansed of the detritus of our everyday lives. Pausing for a photo opportunity at the head of a black-diamond run, we make nervous jokes before pushing off into the void. A few moments later we're dabbing bloody faces, courtesy of the treacherous ice crust lying beneath the powdery snow, but the tumble is quickly forgotten as we resume our journey.

The Art Roscoe Ski Touring Area is named in honor of Art Roscoe, a park forester who was instrumental in the early development of Nordic skiing at Allegany State Park. Partially comprised of old, narrow gauge railroad beds that wander through beautiful old-growth hardwood forests, the scenic trails often offer spectacular views of the surrounding Allegheny Mountains. Elevations range from 2350 feet to 1500 feet but due to the lake effect snow from Lake Erie, snow fall is often quite heavy. In fact, Bob and I are a bit surprised at how similar the area is to the Pemigawasset Wilderness in far off New Hampshire. With eight loop trails ranging from 1.5 miles to 6 miles the groomed trails offer over 35 miles of great skiing. There is no trail fee and the groomed, double-tracked trails are generally well marked. Trail maps are available at the warming hut. The area is generally open late December through mid-March. Although its only open on weekends, the warming hut has a decent selection of wax and other ski necessities. They also have several tables and a small snack shop that offers hot drinks and light meals.

There are many places to stay in nearby Salamanca but Bob and I chose to stay at one of the old cabins in the park. These heated cabins provide sparse but cozy accommodations and are perfect for a weekend ski excursion. Rates run from $50 to $70 per day and reservations may be made by contacting the New York State Reservation System at 1-800-456-CAMP. There is a two day minimum rental on all cabins.

AMI News Cross Country report - This site provides a fairly accurate update of the snow conditions at the Roscoe Ski Touring Center. Be aware that snow conditions can change due to weather, skier traffic and other factors.

Cross Country Skiing in Western New York - Western New York has lots of great locations for cross-country and Nordic skiing. This site profiles some of the best places to go, most of which are free!